In the shadow of the Musée Picasso, where Arthur Gerbi’s famously photographed red Fiat 500 sits sentinel, Merci Paris continues its unlikely journey from concept store to serious watchmaker.
The latest chapter in this story unfolds with four new iterations of the beloved LMM-01, each one a distinct interpretation of what makes a perfect time-only watch. From boardroom sophistication to field-ready functionality, this quartet demonstrates that variety doesn’t require complexity—just thoughtful design and an understanding of what collectors actually want to wear.
What sets this release apart isn’t just the design diversity, but Merci’s approach to accessible luxury. With prices ranging from €390 to €420, these watches offer Swiss manual-winding movements, sapphire crystals, and genuinely distinctive aesthetics at price points that make European watchmaking accessible to enthusiasts who might otherwise be priced out.
The 38mm case diameter and svelte 9.55mm thickness ensure universal wearability, while the 47mm lug-to-lug measurement keeps things proportional across different wrist sizes.
Each variant tells its own story through carefully considered dial design and finishing choices. Rather than relying on complications or exotic materials, Merci has proven that subtle variations in typography, color, and texture can create entirely different personalities within a single case architecture.
This approach reflects the brand’s retail DNA—understanding that customers want choice, but also want each choice to feel purposeful and distinct.
From Atomic Age to Art Deco
The Dress Watch opens the collection with understated sophistication that recalls the golden age of dress watches. Applied pointed baton indices channel 1930s and 40s design language, while the not-quite-white printing evokes period-correct silver gilt finishes.
The black lacquered dial provides perfect contrast for the thin “Slim-Bo” sword hands, creating a timepiece that works equally well with formal attire or elevated casual wear. Black cordovan leather completes the elegant presentation.
The Numerals takes classical elegance even further with what collectors recognize as Breguet numerals, though Merci diplomatically refers to them as Swiss typeface tributes. The cream center dial with lighter outer section creates subtle depth, while black syringe hands provide excellent legibility. This combination of historical reference and modern execution makes it perhaps the most traditionally appealing of the quartet.
The Militare embraces utilitarian heritage with a light brown dial complemented by faux patina tones throughout the hands and cardinal numerals. References to classics like the IWC Mark XI feel natural rather than derivative, while the all-brushed steel case reinforces the tool watch aesthetic. Luminous elements ensure practical timekeeping capability that matches the military inspiration.
Scientific Revolution
The Scientific represents the collection’s most adventurous entry, drawing inspiration from the Atomic Age and Bohr’s planetary model. Luminova pips on the smaller inner dial serve as hour markers with subtle gold toning, while Dauphine hands with luminous inserts capture authentic 1950s aesthetic.
The black center seconds hand provides excellent contrast against the outer track, creating a timepiece that feels both period-appropriate and surprisingly contemporary.
All four watches share the reliable Sellita SW210-1-b manual-winding movement, operating at 28,800 vibrations per hour with 42 hours of power reserve. This Swiss-made caliber ensures daily reliability while maintaining the romantic ritual of hand-winding that connects wearer to timepiece. The closed steel caseback keeps focus on the dial design while maintaining the slim profile that makes these watches so comfortable.
The Scientific’s limited production status adds collector appeal, while the other three variants remain permanently available. This balanced approach ensures both exclusivity for those seeking something unique and accessibility for those drawn to the core design language.
