Leica has expanded its horological portfolio with the captivating ZM1 and ZM2 Urban Green series, showcasing the German brand’s ability to translate their optical precision into watchmaking artistry.
The “Urban Green” concept thoughtfully balances natural beauty with metropolitan dynamism through striking forest green dials that fade to black around the edges—a technique Leica romantically terms “fumé noir” (smoky black), their interpretation of the classic fumé gradient effect.
Nature Meets Metropolis
The dial execution proves particularly compelling, combining rich forest green coloring with a sophisticated smoky gradient that creates depth and visual intrigue. Vertical brushing adds essential texture to the surface, preventing the dramatic color transition from overwhelming the design while enhancing light play across the dial.
This fumé noir treatment represents more than mere aesthetic choice—it embodies Leica’s philosophy of capturing the intersection between organic natural elements and structured urban environments.
Both models maintain the structural foundation established by the original 2022 releases (initially launched as L1 and L2 before rebranding under the Zeitmesser concept). The 41mm stainless steel cases house identical mechanical architecture, though their functional capabilities differ significantly.
The ZM1 presents a refined time-only approach with central hours and minutes, small seconds subdial, power reserve indicator, and date window. The ZM2 elevates complexity through an internal rotating 12-hour bezel serving dual time zone functionality, complemented by a day/night indicator for enhanced travel utility.
The internal rotating bezel mechanism in the ZM2 justifies the substantial £3,480 price difference between models, requiring complete case redesign to accommodate the additional complication plus an extra crown for bezel control. This engineering complexity transforms the ZM2 from simple time display into genuine travel instrument capable of tracking multiple time zones simultaneously.
Mechanical Mastery with Optical Heritage
Both versions utilize Leica’s caliber LH-1001 (also designated ZM1/ZM2 caliber), a manually-wound movement delivering 60-hour power reserve while operating at 4Hz frequency. The movement showcases impressive finishing through the exhibition caseback, combining grainy and polished surfaces that highlight the architectural elements, particularly the prominently positioned balance wheel at 4 o’clock.
Manual winding adds tactile engagement that connects wearers to the timepiece’s operational requirements—appropriate for a brand built on precision instruments requiring user interaction. The 60-hour power reserve ensures practical reliability for weekend wear while maintaining the traditional winding ritual that many collectors find meditative.
The 26-jewel movement reflects Leica’s commitment to mechanical excellence, translating their optical precision heritage into horological craftsmanship. The bold architecture visible through the caseback demonstrates that Leica approaches watchmaking with the same attention to functional beauty that defines their cameras and optical instruments.
Pricing starts at £8,720 for the ZM1 and £12,200 for the ZM2, with variations depending on strap selection—black calf leather with green stitching, black alligator leather with green stitching, or Milanese stainless steel bracelet. These options provide flexibility for different wearing preferences while maintaining the Urban Green aesthetic through complementary color coordination.
For collectors seeking distinctive timepieces that blend natural inspiration with urban sophistication, Leica’s Urban Green series offers compelling alternatives to traditional Swiss offerings. The fumé noir dial treatment creates visual drama while the robust case construction and reliable movement ensure practical daily wear capability—embodying Leica’s reputation for creating beautiful, functional instruments designed for real-world use.
