IWC Schaffhausen has delivered a horological tour de force that combines three of watchmaking’s most coveted complications in a single, breathtaking timepiece.
The IWC Portugieser Tourbillon Rétrograde Chronograph (ref. IW394009) represents the pinnacle of the legendary Portugieser collection, marrying a flying tourbillon, flyback chronograph, and retrograde date display within an exclusive Armor Gold case paired with a mesmerizing Obsidian-colored dial.
Limited to just 100 examples and priced at $145,000 USD, this isn’t merely another variation—it’s a statement piece that showcases IWC’s mastery of high complications.
Triple Threat
The foundation of this exceptional timepiece lies in IWC’s proprietary Caliber 89900 automatic movement, a 375-component marvel that operates at 28,800vph with an impressive 68-hours of power reserve. What distinguishes this iteration from previous versions is the movement’s specially finished rose gold plates and bridges, perfectly complementing the 18k 5N gold rotor and creating visual harmony with the Armor Gold case construction.
The complications work in perfect synchronization to create both functional sophistication and visual drama. The flying tourbillon at 6 o’clock provides mesmerizing mechanical theater while theoretically improving timekeeping accuracy.
The flyback chronograph function allows instant restart of timing operations without stopping the chronograph first—a feature beloved by pilots and motorsport enthusiasts. Meanwhile, the arc-shaped retrograde date display on the dial’s left side adds both practical utility and kinetic entertainment as it jumps back to its starting position at month’s end.
IWC’s Armor Gold case construction elevates this timepiece beyond traditional luxury materials. This proprietary 18k rose gold alloy has been specifically engineered to deliver superior hardness and wear resistance compared to conventional gold formulations. The 43.5mm diameter by 15.9mm thick case strikes an commanding presence while maintaining the classic Portugieser proportions that have defined the collection since its 1939 debut.
The case architecture follows established Portugieser design principles with a box-shaped sapphire crystal protecting the dial and a screw-on display caseback revealing the movement’s intricate finishing. Water resistance reaches 30 meters—sufficient for incidental contact but clearly prioritizing horological exhibition over aquatic adventures. The 22mm lugs accept a sophisticated black alligator leather strap with matching Armor Gold folding clasp, completing the watch’s luxurious presentation.
Obsidian Depths and Golden Highlights
The star of this limited edition lies in its Obsidian-colored dial, a surface that transcends simple black coloring through sophisticated multi-layer construction. The sunburst-finished base receives 15 coats of transparent lacquer, creating remarkable visual depth that shifts and changes with lighting conditions. This technique transforms the dial into a dynamic canvas that appears to glow from within.
Golden accents punctuate the dark surface with precision and purpose. Solid gold applied hour markers match the case material while gold-plated hands and printing create perfect contrast against the obsidian background. The chronograph register at 12 o’clock features dual hands for tracking elapsed minutes and hours, while the retrograde date arc adds geometric interest to the dial’s left side.
This colorway builds upon IWC’s recent exploration of Armor Gold and Obsidian combinations, following successful applications in the Portugieser Hand-Wound Tourbillon Day & Night and Perpetual Calendar 44 models. However, the Tourbillon Rétrograde Chronograph represents the most complex application of this aesthetic theme, creating visual coherence across IWC’s high-end Portugieser offerings.
The $145,000 USD price point reflects this timepiece’s position at the collection’s apex—more expensive than combining the Perpetual Calendar 44 and Hand-Wound Tourbillon Day & Night models. This premium acknowledges the technical complexity of integrating three major complications while maintaining the refined elegance that defines the Portugieser aesthetic.
For collectors seeking the ultimate expression of IWC’s capabilities, the Portugieser Tourbillon Rétrograde Chronograph Obsidian represents a rare opportunity to own mechanical artistry that pushes both technical and aesthetic boundaries. With only 100 examples planned, this limited edition stands as testament to Swiss watchmaking excellence at its most uncompromising level.
