Daniel Roth continues its methodical renaissance with the unveiling of the Extra Plat in 5N rose gold—the second iteration of the brand’s ultra-thin masterpiece following January’s yellow gold Souscription model.
This release marks another carefully calculated step in LVMH’s revival of the storied watchmaker, embracing both heritage and forward-thinking craftsmanship.
Crafting a Legacy in Warm Tones
The signature double-ellipse case—measuring 38.6mm by 35.5mm and a mere 7.7mm thick—remains intact, but now dressed in the warm embrace of 5N rose gold that softens its already elegant silhouette. Unlike the Souscription predecessor, this “standard” model features an open caseback, inviting admirers to appreciate the exquisite movement within—a decision that gracefully balances collector tradition with contemporary expectations.
Beneath this transparent window lies the manually-wound caliber DR002, developed specifically for the Extra Plat by master watchmakers Michel Navas and Enrico Barbasini at La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton.
The movement exemplifies traditional haute horlogerie, with hand-finished, rounded anglage, precisely executed interior angles, and meticulous attention to detail throughout. Particularly noteworthy is the tactile pleasure of the winding mechanism, which delivers a satisfying click that transforms a routine function into a sensory experience.
The dial presents a study in subtle sophistication through its two-part construction: a solid white gold base adorned with linear guilloché (guillochage en ligne)—a deliberate nod to vintage Daniel Roth timepieces—encircled by a 5N rose gold chapter ring that frames crisp black Roman numerals.
Black-coated stainless steel hands provide sharp contrast without resorting to luminescent materials, completing a layered composition that balances traditional craftsmanship with contemporary refinement.
Renaissance by Design
What makes the Extra Plat Rose Gold particularly significant is not just its technical excellence or aesthetic appeal, but its role in the methodical reconstruction of the Daniel Roth legacy.
When LVMH announced the revival in September 2023, skepticism abounded among collectors and enthusiasts. However, through careful, deliberate releases that honor the brand’s original developmental trajectory, these concerns have transformed into enthusiasm.
The current release strategy mirrors Daniel Roth’s original brand-building approach from the early 1990s: Tourbillon in 1989, Extra Plat in 1990, Perpetual Calendar in 1991. This measured cadence allows for meticulous attention to detail that would be impossible in a full-catalog launch.
Even subtle modifications—like the perfectly balanced midcase that sits equidistant from top and bottom (a slight deviation from vintage models), or the historically accurate linear guilloché pattern that references the majority of 1990s Extra Plat examples—demonstrate a profound understanding of the brand’s heritage.
Available immediately at CHF 49,000, the Extra Plat Rose Gold isn’t designated as a limited edition, though production capacity naturally constrains availability. Unlike the Souscription model, this release will be available through select retailers, signaling a gradual expansion of the brand’s market presence while maintaining exclusivity.
For collectors who appreciate both watchmaking heritage and forward-thinking craftsmanship, the Daniel Roth Extra Plat Rose Gold represents far more than a mere color variant. It embodies the renaissance of a legendary independent watchmaker, executed with the patience, resources, and vision that such a legacy deserves—a golden thread connecting horological past to present, one meticulous timepiece at a time.
