Breitling has emerged from the depths with a completely reimagined Superocean Heritage B31 Automatic collection that finally delivers the vintage-inspired dive watch enthusiasts have been waiting for.
After years of playing it safe in the retro diving segment, the Swiss aviation specialist has crafted something genuinely compelling – a ground-up redesign that honors the original 1957 Superocean’s distinctive character while incorporating modern performance standards that rival today’s best dive watches.
Dive Into History
The transformation begins with the case architecture, available in 40mm, 42mm, and 44mm configurations. Breitling has abandoned the previous generation’s utilitarian slab-sided profile in favor of gently curved case sides that create a more refined, sophisticated presence.
The redesigned screw-down crown adopts a softly domed shape that enhances the watch’s distinctive profile, while the signature broad ceramic bezel – available in piano black, forest green, or navy blue – maintains its minimalist aesthetic with subtle notches carved into the upper lugs.
Perhaps most significantly, each size offers different proportions rather than simple scaling. The compact 40mm version measures 11.73mm thick with a 48.2mm lug-to-lug length, while the substantial 44mm variant stretches to 12.17mm thick and 52.44mm lug-to-lug. This thoughtful approach to sizing ensures optimal wrist presence across different preferences, though the 40mm model curiously omits the green and blue bezel options.
The dial represents the collection’s most dramatic evolution. Breitling has borrowed the iconic “skewered circle” index from the original 1957 Superocean, positioning it prominently at 12 o’clock while surrounding it with faceted, brilliantly polished dagger indices. The redesigned handset embraces cathedral-style proportions that echo the 1950s original, with broader silhouettes and enhanced luminous material for superior legibility.
Sunburst dial finishes in deep black, hunter green, or abyssal blue create dramatic light play that enhances the watch’s vintage character. However, the white date window at 6 o’clock may prove divisive – while practical, it disrupts the color harmony and intrudes on the hour marker to varying degrees across the three sizes.
Modern Milanese Style
The heart of this renaissance lies in Breitling’s new B31 automatic movement, manufactured exclusively by Sellita to Breitling’s specifications. While not technically in-house, this collaboration represents serious horological advancement with an impressive 78-hour power reserve, 28,800 bph frequency, and COSC chronometer certification.
The movement’s finishing rivals true manufacture calibers, featuring broad Côtes de Genève decoration, tight perlage, and gold-inlaid engraved text visible through the sapphire display caseback.
Breitling has embraced the Milanese trend with both steel bracelets and rubber straps featuring finely detailed multi-link patterns. The rubber deployant straps, available in dial-matching colors, offer an unusual tang buckle-style closure that may require adjustment for traditional strap enthusiasts. However, the stainless steel Milanese bracelets appear perfectly suited to the collection’s 1950s-forward character, creating seamless integration with fitted endlinks.
Select models receive 18k red gold accents on bezels and crowns – specifically the blue-dial 44mm and black-dial 42mm versions – adding luxury touches without overwhelming the design’s essential character. All models maintain 200-meter water resistance and sapphire crystal protection, ensuring genuine dive capability.
Pricing ranges from $6,200 to $8,200, positioning the collection competitively within the premium dive watch segment while offering exceptional value considering the B31 movement’s specifications and the collection’s comprehensive redesign.
This revitalized Superocean Heritage finally gives Breitling a compelling entry in the vintage dive watch arena, combining authentic 1950s inspiration with contemporary performance standards that should satisfy both nostalgic collectors and modern diving enthusiasts.
