After years of collector pleading and enthusiast forum debates, Blancpain has finally answered the call for a properly sized Fifty Fathoms Automatique with their inaugural 38mm case diameter – marking a significant milestone for the legendary dive watch collection.
While the brand positions these two new models as specifically designed for women, featuring mother-of-pearl dégradé dials, the reality is that countless collectors have been desperately seeking vintage-proportioned modern Fifty Fathoms watches regardless of gender targeting.
Size Matters
The timing couldn’t be more perfect. With the broader watch industry experiencing a sustained shift toward smaller, more wearable proportions, Blancpain’s move represents both market acknowledgment and technical achievement.
Rather than simply shrinking existing 42mm and 45mm cases, the Swiss manufacture has completely redesigned the architecture to maintain optimal visual balance at the reduced diameter. The iconic case-side “Blancpain” engraving remains intact, ensuring the distinctive design DNA that has defined the collection since its 1953 debut.
Both variants maintain serious diving credentials with 300-meter water resistance housed in a perfectly proportioned 12mm thickness that balances the 38.2mm width beautifully.
Domed sapphire unidirectional luminous timing bezels feature easy-to-read Arabic numerals at cardinal positions, all filled with Super-LumiNova for optimal underwater visibility. The lumed hands include Blancpain’s signature red-tipped seconds hand, adding the brand’s traditional splash of color to both iterations.
The black mother-of-pearl model showcases classic luxury through its 18k polished red gold case construction. This precious metal treatment elevates the diving tool into haute horlogerie territory while maintaining the technical specifications that have made the Fifty Fathoms a professional diving instrument for seven decades.
Multiple strap options include sail-canvas, tropic rubber, and NATO-style fabric configurations, each available with either pin buckle or folding clasp attachments.
Titanium Innovation
The pink mother-of-pearl variant represents Blancpain’s more adventurous approach, pairing the unconventional color palette with a brushed Grade 23 titanium case that emphasizes tool watch functionality over precious metal luxury.
This combination creates fascinating contrast – the romantic pink hues balanced against the industrial titanium construction that serious divers demand for corrosion resistance and lightweight performance.
Powering both models is Blancpain’s manufacture Caliber 1153, a robust automatic movement delivering exceptional 100-hour power reserve – approximately four days of autonomous operation. Running at 3Hz frequency with 28 jewels, this movement represents the technical foundation that has established Blancpain’s reputation for reliability in extreme underwater conditions.
The titanium version offers multiple wearing options through either matching titanium bracelet integration or two-tone pink and white fabric strap configurations. This versatility acknowledges that modern diving watches must transition seamlessly from underwater exploration to casual lifestyle wear.
Pricing reflects the material distinctions: the pink titanium model starts at CHF 15,500, while the black gold version commands $31,600 – reasonable positioning considering the manufacture movement, case redesign investment, and Blancpain’s haute horlogerie pedigree.
Perhaps most importantly, these 38mm releases prove that vintage-inspired proportions and modern performance capabilities aren’t mutually exclusive. While Blancpain markets these specifically toward women, the reality is that proper case sizing benefits all collectors seeking wearable luxury dive watches that honor the original Fifty Fathoms’ elegant proportions while delivering contemporary technical excellence.
This long-awaited size addition finally gives the Fifty Fathoms collection universal appeal across diverse wrist sizes and style preferences.
