Half a century ago, Girard-Perregaux introduced what would become one of horology’s most enduring designs.
Originally christened the “GP Chronometer” in 1975, the overwhelming enthusiasm from Italian collectors prompted the brand to rename it “Laureato” – Italian for “the graduate.” This wasn’t just a marketing decision; it was recognition of a design that had already achieved honors in the competitive world of luxury timepieces.
Fifty Years of Italian-Inspired Excellence
The Laureato’s DNA has remained remarkably consistent through five decades of evolution. That signature octagonal bezel nestled within a tonneau-shaped case, paired with an integrated bracelet, continues to define the collection’s aesthetic language. While the original’s largest size was a modest 35mm, today’s flagship 42mm “Infinite Grey” model proves that some designs only improve with age and scale.
The latest iteration maintains the architectural precision that made the original so compelling. The octagonal case sits proudly atop the tonneau-shaped foundation, creating the visual tension between geometric forms that has captivated collectors for generations. But it’s the dial that truly commands attention – a masterpiece of Grand Feu enamel craftsmanship that elevates this timepiece into rarified territory.
The dial’s mesmerizing bluish-grey hue results from a precise alchemical blend of silica, minium, potash, and soda, finely ground and combined with metal oxides. This mixture is carefully layered onto the dial surface and fired at approximately 800°C in specialized kilns – a process repeated five to ten times until perfection is achieved. The unpredictability of this ancient technique means some dials face rejection for minor imperfections, but those that survive the crucible will endure for generations.
Technical Mastery Meets Artistic Vision
Beneath the captivating exterior lies the GP01800 automatic movement, entirely developed and assembled at Girard-Perregaux’s La Chaux-de-Fonds manufacture. This in-house caliber measures just 3.97mm thick while delivering an impressive 54-hour power reserve, showcasing the brand’s commitment to both technical excellence and practical usability.
The movement’s finishing reflects Girard-Perregaux’s heritage of haute horlogerie craftsmanship. A pink gold oscillating weight adorned with circular Côtes de Genève takes center stage, while straight Côtes de Genève decorates the bridges. Mirror-polished screws, beveled edges, and circular graining on the main plate create a visual symphony that’s as pleasing to observe as it is technically accomplished.
Operating at 28,800 vibrations per hour with 191 components and 28 jewels, the movement provides essential functions including hours, minutes, central seconds, and date. The rhodium-plated baton hands maintain legibility while the slender central seconds hand features a counterweight inspired by Girard-Perregaux’s iconic Gold Bridge – a subtle nod to the brand’s innovative heritage.
The 42mm steel case, measuring just 10.68mm thick, strikes an ideal balance between presence and wearability. Alternating polished and satin-brushed surfaces create visual complexity while maintaining elegant proportions. The integrated steel bracelet continues this finishing philosophy, ensuring seamless integration from case to wrist.
Available worldwide as of June 23, 2025, the Laureato 42mm “Infinite Grey” carries a price of $17,900 and can be found at all authorized Girard-Perregaux retailers. Unlike limited editions that create artificial scarcity, this model represents the brand’s confidence in enduring appeal over exclusivity – a graduate that continues earning honors fifty years later.
